Inkscape Cookie Cutter Extension

Hello! 

I found this cool Inkscape extension and played around with it.

Find the authors instructable here: 
https://www.instructables.com/3D-Printable-Cookie-Cutters-With-Inkscape-and-Open/ 

Setup

1. Download all free required software:
• Inkscape
• OpenSCAD
• A slicer such as Cura
2. Install software like normal
3. Download the extension: OpenSCAD cookie cutter file output 
   https://inkscape.org/~arpruss/%E2%98%85openscad-cookie-cutter-file-output%20 
4. Open Inkscape, Go to Edit/Preferences:
   
5. Go to System/Inkscape Extensions, and copy the location:
   
6. Unzip the Inkscape extension to that location, for me it was here:
   C:\Program Files\Inkscape\share\inkscape\extensions 
   
7. The folder should be there named "cookiecutterinkscapeplugin" open this.
8. You should see a python file called "svg2cookiecutter.py" you can open this with notepad or notepad++ or another program of your choosing. This can be used to tune the parameters for all generated files. 

Testing it Out

1. Open a New Inkscape Document
2. Create a Square, hold Ctrl
3. Click the Mouse Icon to Select it
4. From the top Toolbar: Path > Object to Path
5. In the Fill and Stroke tab on the right-hand side, Select no Fill, and Solid Stroke. Stroke Style Width to something that is easily visible.
6. Copy and Paste the Square 2x, set to Red, Green and Black.
   
   Red - Outside Lines with Brim - RGBA: ff0000ff
   Black - Partial Lines for Embossing - RGBA: 000000ff
   Green - Full Inside Lines - RGBA: 00ff00ff
   White - Bottom Connector Lines
   

   
7. Create two more squares, this time adjust so that they have a solid fill
8. Align all squares by dragging them on top of each other. Click a corner and use Ctrl + Shift to shrink it.
9. Select all squares, Ctrl + A
10. Edit > Resize Page to Selection
11. File Save As - Adjust type to OpenSCAD
    
12. Open the File in OpenSCAD to confirm that it works.
13. Tune parameters and hit save after each one until it is to your liking
    
    
    
    
14. To adjust them for all future files, copy and paste your changes into the "svg2cookiecutter.py" file mentioned in Setup.

Below for a 0.4 mm embossing edge height, I set wallHeight to 9, and featureHeight to 8.6.

To make sure your feature height is working, you can set it to 6 for easier visibility. Hit save after any changes in OpenSCAD to refresh the view. Note if you save the scad file in inkscape, it will overwrite any changes made to the file open in OpenSCAD with the values stored in the .py file.

// Red & Green Height

wallHeight = 9;

minWallThickness = .6;

maxWallThickness = .6;

minInsideWallThickness = 0.2;

maxInsideWallThickness = .6;

// Red Edge Rim Thickness

wallFlareWidth = 2;

wallFlareThickness = 2;

// Green Edge Rim Inside

insideWallFlareWidth = 1.5;

insideWallFlareThickness = 1.5;

// Black Inner Embossing

featureHeight = 7.2;

// White Fill Bottom Thickness

connectorThickness = 2;

// All Colors - Angle Crease Starting Height 

cuttingTaperHeight = 3.5;

cuttingEdgeThickness = .2;

minFeatureThickness = .8;

maxFeatureThickness = 1.5;

// set to non-zero value, ex: 1, to generate a demoulding plate

demouldingPlateHeight = 0;

demouldingPlateSlack = .6;

White fill, no stroke can be used to connect pieces together as below. Use the Align tools in Inkscape to center them on objects. You can combine or subtract images from each other using the Path functions in the top dropdown menu. 

Free Cutters Search

I look through pages of free 3D files on cults3d.com looking for polymer clay cutters and added them to my cutters collection. I liked the selection on this site, so that is where I host my creations as well. 

Cults3d: https://cults3d.com/en/design-collections/Kawaii_Happy_Things/free-cutters 

I also found a few on Thingiverse: 
https://www.thingiverse.com/kawaii_happy_things/collections/free-polymer-clay 

I printed some and it was a 6-hour print. I am really curious about if the angled cutters make a difference vs ones with a single or double edge fine blade. I would think they would be less likely to have things get stuck in them, and be generally easier to clean.

Two of the prints had some lines through the center of them, but I should be able to remove them with a file. The smooth slope feels really sturdy and clean on the big loopy L3D10 clay cutter by Denislav.

Wrapping Paper Polymer Clay Transfer

I tried out this wrapping paper transfer method!

My results are below. I am pretty happy with this method, it even transferred the silver paper. Some of the edges aren't perfect, but I think I could have rubbed them in more to get better results. I love the cute little owls! It is such a great way to play around with different patterns. I went around to nearly every thrift store in the area looking for wrapping paper, so it adds a bit of treasure hunting to the fun. They are brightest when wet, or covered in a sealant and fade slightly as they dry.

Supplies:

(Amazon links below are affiliate links)

• Wrapping Paper
• Not shinny
• Paper texture
• Thrift stores are the cheapest, even dollar stores can be expensive nowadays
• Look for tiny prints that would fit inside something the size of a loonie
• Hand Sanitizer
• Alcohol-based, avoid aloe
• Rubbing alcohol also works
• Do not use nail polish remover
• Cotton Pads/Paper Towel
• Anything that can be used to apply the sanitizer
• For the cutter shape:
• Free 3D File
• Amazon Cutter Pack
• Ceramic Tile - 6x6" White Gloss Tile Home Depot  
• Polymer Clay - Any brand, bake with normal directions
• Fine Blade Cartridge
• Baby Wipes - For wiping surfaces and hands to remove dust
• Sand Paper & 100% Acetone
• Optional: A sealant or UV resin & UV lamp
• Optional: Drill for hole

Steps:

1. Clean your hands & surfaces before handling the clay with baby wipes to keep as much dust out as possible.
2. Cut out a shape on the tile, leaving space around each cut or you can try to transfer it after with the fine blade. Cut out a hole for earrings in this step or after cooking with a drill.
3. Cut out the paper you want to transfer and firmly smooth it into the clay
4. Apply a generous amount of hand sanitizer with the cotton pad rubbing vigorously on all edges for a few minutes.
5. Let dry for 1 hour
6. Bake as per clay direction
7. Let cool for 1 hour
8. Dip in water, peel and rub off the image - It doesn't rub off easy
9. Sand the bottom using wet-dry sandpaper and 100% acetone & drill a hole if desired
10. Seal with the desired sealant, or leave it as is. 

Questions:

Q: Do I need to use a tile or can I just use parchment paper?

A: If you use a 3D-printed cutter - yes, metal - no. Ceramic tiles allow the material to stick to the tile rather than the 3D-printed cutter. 

Q: Why should I leave space around my cuts?
A: If you try to cut out a very specific shape like a circle and try to transfer it then it can stretch. If you leave space you don't need to do so. Leave enough space for the paper overhang and for your fingers to run around the edges.

Q: How do I keep the UV resin from sticking to materials underneath it?

A: Use materials that won't stick to resin such as wax, polyethylene plastic (sandwich bags), and silicone mats. I use Let's Resin UV Resin with the gel nail kit I purchased ages ago, but it is also sold as a kit that includes a mat. 

Q: What tools are best for sanding?

A: For edges, use a nail drill (dremel) that can be sold with most gel nail kits. The important part is the tips, use wool felt tips for gentle edge sanding, and go slow!
For the flat parts, rotary sanders can be used, but the grits need to be fairly fine grit since they usually can't be reduced too much in speed. Regular wet-dry sandpaper also works for hand sanding which allows the most control, you can use it with acetone. Rotary disks grits that work best for:

Flat surfaces - 800, 1500 and 2400

Curved Surfaces - 2400

Fine Finishing - 3600, 4000 and 6000